Route 62 and Garden Route: Discover South Africa's Hidden Treasures
Magazin | Journal Ausflug, Reisetipps, Südafrika
Due to our work commitments in the Somerset West and Stellenbosch areas, we have hardly stepped outside for the last 20 years. Thus, we were excited to discover what has changed outside our daily routine.
We had three days to bridge between checking out of our accommodation and an important appointment we aimed to attend before departure. A delicious breakfast in Stellenbosch sent us on our way to Robertson, with a brief stop at Springfield before cruising along the R62 toward Calitzdorp, where we planned to meet Boets Nel and his team at De Krans the next morning.
We eagerly embarked on the picturesque Route 62, which runs parallel to the N2 but meanders through the countryside at a much more leisurely pace. After about an hour, we arrived in Barrydale for a coffee break. Just prior to getting there, we spotted a sign for Barrydale Hand Weavers and the Joseph Barry Distillery. Intrigued, we decided to follow the signage, discovering an incredible community project where talented artisans weave beautiful fabrics.
The infectious spirit at the weaving workshop brought home how little we knew about everyday processes. The speed with which the weavers operate their looms while synchronizing footwork was fascinating for us office dwellers.
If anyone in the team believes that a visit to a weaving workshop might feel mundane, they would be pleased to also sample the exquisite brandies crafted at the Joseph Barry Distillery located on the same property. This detour is truly worth it, as everyone can find something to enjoy.
Upon leaving, grabbing coffee and a snack at one of the cafés along the route is a must. One might even find a frame reminiscent of our shared photograph.
From Robertson to Calitzdorp
If you're thirsting for a beer after Barrydale, we recommend holding off just another 30 km and about 20 minutes. Then you’ll unexpectedly find Ronnie's Sex Shop on the right. It’s a legendary spot that perhaps only exists in South Africa. Ronnie appears to be a friendly, grizzled dropout and biker. In the ‘70s, he opened a "farm stall" that has blossomed into a beloved pub among locals and tourists.
The walls and ceilings are adorned with memorabilia from visitors across the globe, notably from Germany, while the story behind the hundreds of bras hanging from the ceiling remains intriguing.
On a long journey, Ronnie’s Sex Shop is the perfect place to stop for a drink and is practically a must-see for every traveler.
The pandemic’s effects nearly crippled Ronnie, but a call for community support rallied his global fan base, allowing him to survive the tough times.
Calitzdorp
Calitzdorp, the heart of the port wine industry in South Africa. While discussions continue about the claim that the finest port wines come from this area, it’s certainly a noteworthy region. We enjoyed a lovely meal at Dorphuis Calitzdorp on the terrace and were grateful to have finished before a sudden power outage plunged the area into darkness. Unlike the city, here it can get profoundly dark, and the silence is palpable. This overwhelming stillness was a refreshing change after a whirlwind of engagements.At breakfast the following morning, we were welcomed by cool weather at De Krans. A unique experience for us was dining on a wine estate—familiar and flavorful. We enjoyed ample opportunity to chat with Boets Nel, our favorite producer in Calitzdorp.
We knew him to craft the finest Cape Fortifieds, and his latest 22 vintage Sauvignon Blanc is nothing short of spectacular. Price-wise, we currently find it unbeatable, hence it will be our Summer Wine 2023; however, it has sold out rapidly and will only return by mid-April. Instead, today’s special is the De Krans Free Run Chenin.
After breakfast and an excursion through the Hanepoot vineyard, we set back out, only to discover that even a seemingly quiet junction can rapidly transition to a bustling hotspot.
Peter Bayly Wines on the No Name Road
Before heading back towards the coast, we made an unplanned stop at Peter Bayly Wines, a vineyard that previously supplied us with delightful white fortified wines. The drive was a challenge for our sedan, yet upon arrival after about 30 minutes, we were introduced to Peter Bayly and his wife Yvonne.
At first glance, it may appear you've come to the wrong place. For those used to glamorous Stellenbosch estates, this little gem appears more akin to laborers’ accommodations. However, far removed from city life, you meet two sharp escapees who left their luxury lives in Cape Town to cultivate wine, and they seem to be succeeding nicely.
They have about seven hectares, with only 1.2 hectares under cultivation, and profound efforts protect their grapevines from local baboon families.
We could share so much more about our visit, with stories waiting to be told regarding the adventurous locals; perhaps we will save that for another time.
Before we left, Peter told us to stop by Marcia's Studio on the way back. This led us to yet another fascinating highlight with a talented artist who quickly stitched flowers from fabric.
Refreshed from a marveling tour of both humanity and artistry, we returned to civilization with renewed spirits.
Knysna
As we continued on our journey without getting entangled in numerous roadside attractions, we headed to Knysna. For the next day and a half, we aimed to appreciate the natural beauty of the Garden Route without a focus on wine. This time was truly delightful, as we cultivated appreciation beyond just fine wines.
Ultimately, our trip concluded in rewarding splendor as we returned, filled with enriching sights, new experiences, and valuable encounters. This Monday, we won’t forget.
As for this week’s offers, they are closely tied to our journey and the places we visited.