Voor Paardeberg: The Birth of a Wine Revolution

The international interest in quality wines from South Africa has developed significantly thanks to the Swartland Revolution, a movement that took root about 20 years ago in the hot and dry region of Paardeberg. However, it was in the area of Voor-Paardeberg where the likes of Swartland icons Adi Badenhorst and Eben Sadie recognized great potential.

Two decades later, this relatively overlooked area, often dismissed as “Swartland Lite,” is finally blossoming. The Voor-Paardeberg district starts at the southern end of the mountain, where new wave winemakers are currently acquiring many grapes and land.

When I reviewed the list of vintners currently working in the area (Donovan Rall, Miles Mossop, Bernard Bredell, John Seccombe, Jacques de Klerk, Thinus Kruger, Pieter Walser, Tremayne Smith …), I began to wonder what it takes for a region to emerge from obscurity and suddenly become “so hot” or shift its perception from “Swartland Lite” to “the next big trend.”

The Anatomy of a Wine Trend

Wine trends are like the word “monopoly.” The more you fixate on them, the more bizarre they appear. For a wine trend to truly take hold, it requires two seemingly exclusive qualities. First, it needs a new kind of excitement to topple the establishment, while it second draws from traditional quality that should have always existed. Both components are necessary for it to truly work.

If a trend lacks that ancient quality, it is seen as a fad. But conversely, if there is no new, tangible change in the product, then the consumer has no new narrative to cling to.

Here are just a few examples:

• The orange/amber wine wave – a “new” wine style based on ancient Georgian techniques dating back 8,000 years.
• The blossoming romance of the global wine community with regional varieties showcasing long-forgotten grapes presented by hip young sommeliers.
• The ever-growing natural wine movement refers back to an era before technology or cellar additives.
• Finally, the Swartland Revolution combined the ancient sites of Swartland and Paardeberg with fresh winemaking styles, enabling “wines of place” to flourish.

South African wine was once known for big, bold reds, stinky Pinotage, and cheap Chenin.

After contemplating this old and modern thesis on what constitutes a wine trend, I started to wonder if the increasing roster of who's who winemakers working in the community of Voor-Paardeberg was a sign of a broader shift in the region's wine reputation.

But does Voor-Paardeberg have what it takes?

On my way to Vondeling – one of the more established wineries in the area – I noticed the road leading to Voor-Paardeberg as a physical manifestation of changing perceptions. Driving north from Cape Town along the N7, you're greeted not by idyllic seaside views but by unappealing oil refineries surrounded by barbed wire fences.

Beyond that, however, the scene softens. The barren landscape gives way to flat wheat fields, and against all odds, a few initial vineyards rise. Suddenly you are met with striking, rugged cliffs on one side and beautiful vineyards on the other. You are now in the Winelands.

I stood on a veranda overlooking the vineyards of the Vondeling estate and watched the leaves rustle in the breeze. “Ah, someone just turned on the air conditioning!” remarked a young man to my left, it was winemaker Jaco Engelbrecht, founder of Visual Viticulture.

“Every afternoon, you feel the cool breeze blowing in from Tafelbaai [to the south],” he continued. “The cool air is pumped in by the trough between Paarl Mountain and Paardeberg Mountain, making a huge difference and preventing the afternoon heat from building up.

And what about the soils?

“Closer to the mountain, we have plenty of decomposed granite soils. These lead to higher acidity and freshness. But as you move away from the mountain, you see more schist soils that often yield fatter, fuller wines. The best wines, in my opinion, are typically a blend of vineyard parcels grown on both types of soils.

However, there are exceptions; the “Old Vine Chenin” in my glass was an exceptionally rich and layered saline-wax affair from Henry Kotzes Pilgrim Wines, made from grapes grown in decomposed sandstone and clay.

And what about the berries?

Looking at the selection of wines on the lunch table, everything was on offer, from a generously styled, oaked Ayama Vermentino to Tremayne Smith's vibrant purple BlackSmith Innervision Pinotage. “Vibrant purple” doesn’t quite capture its hue; it was closer to “Pantone #f2117d,” a color described as “razzmatazz.”

But the wines expressing the most focus and skill were often Chenin Blanc blends, frequently supported by Roussanne, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc.

But why now?

There remains the cynical theory that the recent popularity of Voor-Paardeberg is simply due to excessive sourcing in Swartland. Young winemakers are seeking alternatives, and the Voor-Paardeberg, just around the corner, is an obvious choice.

20 Years for Overnight Success

However, a simple shortage of options in a trendier region doesn’t explain why some larger players are procuring fruit from Voor-Paardeberg while also investing significantly in land. Regional giants like Bosman Family Vineyards have recently purchased Sonopfarm, raising speculation about their intentions.

The excitement surrounding innovative varieties and a return to the roots of winemaking is crucial. Voor-Paardeberg is poised to thrive.

A few Voor-Paardeberg gems worth discovering:

• Vondeling Estate Babiana White Blend 2018 (58% Chenin, 21% Viognier, and roughly equal parts Grenache Blanc & Roussanne)
• Pilgrim Wine’s Chenin Blanc 2019 (made with 35-year-old vines, qualifying it for the Old Vine Project)
• Ayama’s Vermentino 2018 (100% Vermentino; partially barrel fermented; neutral oak)
• Albert Ahrens WhiteBlack Blend 2018 (Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, and Roussanne, approximately equal parts)
• Alheit Vineyard’s Fire By Night Chenin Blanc 2018 (from 43-year-old vineyards; fermented in concrete eggs)

(Text Source: Tim Atkin, Articles, Voor Paardeberg)