The Rockstar Winemaker Concept

Christian Eedes has considered the concept of the winemaker virtuoso in Swartland and why their wines receive such acclaim.

“Most winemakers shy away from being recognized as 'rockstars' and prefer to position themselves as humble farmers dedicated to growing grapes reflecting the region. Wine is always produced with ecological and social sustainability in mind. However, it's simply incorrect to deny that certain individuals achieve celebrity status. Their work inspires genuine praises from passionate wine lovers. If they are not 'rockstars,' what are they?”

When I visited Adi Badenhorst at Kalmoesfontein on the Paardeberg Farm, more than an hour's journey northeast of Cape Town, I pondered this. The new releases from this producer had led the wine trade and media to split into two groups heading to Swartland: one at 10 AM and the other at 4 PM.

A colleague with little knowledge of wine asked me what the special attraction was.

One element certainly works at the level of prophets and disciples. In this increasingly secular world, the winemaker is seen as someone who has connections to the metaphysical, if not divine. Wine facilitates the journey in search of meaning. While this may sound fanciful, I found myself chuckling as I stood in the ancient vineyard Ramnasgras Cinsault awaiting Badenhorst, the bearded man reminiscent of an Old Testament seer, to share a few drops of his vintage from 2012.

There's a sporting element inherent in appreciating wine: competition, rivalry. Wine region against wine region, farm against farm, with fans following the fortunes of their chosen producers for years or even decades. Naturally, it’s all about points and ratings; wine enthusiasts are just as engrossed as cricket fans.

And here it's about the new ratings of the Badenhorst Wines.

You can't overlook the mentality of trophy hunting, as collectors and hunters make the great effort to seek out the rarities with high ratings. If killing animals is an unpleasant analogy, think about the investments music fans make to attend a concert of their favorite band, or what foodies are willing to do to dine at a trendy restaurant.

Ultimately, though, it revolves around why certain producers receive more accolades than others. Badenhorst and his team have always been rather casual in their winemaking approach - you’ll find the website somewhat incomplete if you’re looking for info sheets, the back labels often lack detail, and answers to inquiries are typically vague - but once you taste the wines, it becomes clear. There’s much talk about the difficulty in expressing taste - some wines are plush, others lean, some bright and light, while others are dense and powerful - but when you enjoy something good, you just know it. It’s akin to listening to a remarkable singer whose captivating expressiveness astounds us, prompting us to stop evaluating them by our customary sensory standards.