Carl Schultz: Master Winemaker at Hartenberg

Wine estates - referring to properties whose wines are continuously crafted from their own grapes - have a life of their own, reflecting vineyard changes and the personalities that guide them. This is apparent, as plantings evolve in composition, age, health, and their roles in blends and single vineyard wines.

This also applies to winemakers who make decisions regarding vineyards and the wine production process. Not many winemakers remain in the same cellar for upwards of 15 or 20 years.

When vineyards are young, the challenge lies in imparting texture to the wines. Over time - assuming they don’t fall prey to viruses - the task shifts to capturing and retaining the purity of the fruit. Consumer preferences also have an impact; the previous demand for oak influence in winemaking peaked long ago, while concrete eggs and ceramic amphorae have come back into vogue along with a revival of large casks that impart subtle wood flavors.

One can easily identify wineries in Stellenbosch that have undergone significant changes. However, there are also those that share control over their vineyards long enough to withstand fleeting fashion trends.

This year, Kanonkop commemorates its 50th anniversary as a bottled wine producer. Throughout this time, only three winemakers have managed it. The Krige family has ensured its conservative operation and adequate funding, allowing the winemaking team to produce the finest wines from the estate's fruit.

The previous demand for oak indications in winemaking reached its peak.

Carl Schultz at Hartenberg - A Connoisseur’s Tribute

The latter was arguably the finest Merlot I have sampled from a Cape winery—fully formed, seamless, unique, and still youthful. Upon tasting the latest releases from Hartenberg, I recognized the importance of a winemaker maintaining a steadfast role at a winery. Carl Schultz has been at the estate for 30 years, overseeing at least one major replanting and guiding a successful virus management program.

I haven’t always favored Hartenberg's wines, particularly the ultra-premium range, as the fruit often struggled against oak influence. However, his most recent collection has substantially reversed this perception. All of his current wines demonstrate greater fruit integration and less prominent wood tannins. The estate’s Chardonnay is divine and a genuine bargain. The Eleanor 2020 Chardonnay, while larger and more structured, remains nuanced, balancing creaminess with the intensity to carry the fruit.

Among the estate's distinguished wines, I found the Megan 2019 (which I tasted as a pre-release) has the potential to become one of the finest Rhône blends in the industry. The Mackenzie 2017 (a Cabernet-dominated Bordeaux-style blend) showcases substantial concentration but requires more time before it’s ready. The Gravel Hill Syrah 2017 is also exceptional, with chocolate notes rather than peppery spice.

All in all, Carl Schultz's newest wines reflect the quiet confidence of a man whose career has been shaped by the estate where he has spent most of his professional life.

(A tribute to Carl Schultz by Michael Fridjhon)