Why Embrace the “Underdog”? Uncover Chenin Blanc's Treasures

An Ode to Chenin Blanc by Alex Dale

“I have never understood why the beloved Chenin Blanc grape in South Africa goes unappreciated. The surprising ability of this varietal to yield wines with profound character and individuality, despite frequent neglect, stands out.

Post-apartheid, when the world opened to South African wines, winemakers sought modern varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, while the dominant Chenin Blanc was cast aside. Why? These grapes flourished in abundance and contributed to generations of brandy, yet they were not afforded the respect they deserved.

Since our inaugural vintage in 1990, I am continually amazed at how these neglected old bush vines yield such exquisite flavors and are surprisingly easy to cultivate. The Chenin grapes from the Helderberg Region, where vineyards embrace the ocean breeze on decomposed granite and clay, have particularly impressed me. This terroir produces wines with a naturally balanced minerality, allowing even novice winemakers to shine.

This insight, alongside Chenin Blanc's minimal role in the global wine market, prompted me to launch our enterprise focused on this varietal on the Helderberg. Who takes this varietal seriously beyond certain regions in France?

We did! In the mid-90s, we began identifying old bush vines in prime locations, persuading skeptical growers not to uproot their Chenin vines, offering them premium compensation for their efforts. They thought we were foolish.

Now, nearly two decades later, we cultivate a wondrous assortment of old bush vines up to 50 years old, producing five distinctive Helderberg Chenins. Each showcases the unique minerality and complexity representative of our area.

The proof lies in perception. Wherever our wines go, we provide customers something genuinely unique and distinctive. We have gained recognition for Chenin Blanc as a remarkable varietal.

This varietal has returned our respect and love, forming the foundation of our philosophy.

“Given the vast range of terroirs in the Cape Winelands, the Chenin Blanc grape possesses a fascinating capacity to express the land's qualities when treated with the respect it deserves.” – Jacques de Klerk, Winemaking Head at Radford Dale.