The Evolution of South African Wine

The post-harvest season is typically more relaxed, with many producers off hunting in the Kalahari or fishing. This also applies to me, but instead of indulging in a book, I'm studying spreadsheets and uncovering stories hidden within the massive data sets. The SAWIS database is a treasure trove of information that has helped me reveal the true story of South African wine: where it began, how it evolved, and a look into its future.

Simple Times (1985-1994)

The phrase "life was easier back then" couldn't be more accurate when looking back at the early days of the South African wine industry. Consumers held onto the basics, mainly enjoying still whites, reds, and a bit of brandy during the Currie Cups, followed by champagne if their team won. This pattern continued for nearly a decade, with only the sweet natural wine entering the market in 1991. Wine volumes saw only modest increases during this time, but skyrocketed in 1994 with an unprecedented 35% rise in a single year. Vineyard plantings fell in 1990, primarily due to fewer Chenin Blanc and Colombar, but gradually picked up again in the following years.

The Red Wine Revolution (1995-2011) in South Africa

With South Africa, post-apartheid, back on the global stage, the influence of international markets on our wines and grape production became evident. White still wine had a competitive edge, but with 5,333 hectares of red varieties planted in 1999, the volume of produced red wines continued to grow, being recognized as the winner in 2003 with a long-term growth of 12.2% from 1995 to 2011. Despite the lowest planted hectares in 2000, the white wine volumes were closely behind with a growth of 9.4% during the same period. Regarding new and other types of wine, sweeter wines had a modest start in 1998, while pot still brandy peaked in 2000 at nearly 24,000 liters.

The Great Turnaround (2012-2013)

After over a decade of red wine dominance, consumer preferences suddenly shifted, necessitating adjustments from wineries. In 2012, red wine was officially dethroned as white wine took the lead with an impressive 35% increase in volume that year. Rosé wine also surged, exceeding 60 million liters in 2013. Unfortunately, this increase was short-lived, with certified rosé volumes remaining consistently below 45 million liters annually. After 2013, hectares of grapevine plantings declined year by year, though the number of planted varieties remained constant.

A Celebration Era (2014-)

Trends in wine consumption and production mirrored the changes as consumers experienced greater diversity. South Africans are becoming better educated about grape varieties, premium wines, and styles that align with their evolving drinking habits and lifestyles. Moreover, the split between white and red wine volumes is returning to pre-1990 levels, with over 60% of certified liters being white wine while red wine volumes steadily decrease. The stories the data reveal are truly astonishing. Each chapter in the tale of wine speaks to growth and versatility amidst challenging and ever-changing circumstances. Over the last decade, we've seen a steady decline in wine sales and planted vineyard hectares, but in hindsight, this signifies change is on the horizon. Consumers are constantly evolving, and we must remain vigilant and act swiftly when the next opportunity arises.

(Yolandi Botha)