Shiraz or Syrah: The Distinct Styles of South African Wines

Shiraz in South Africa’s Wine Regions

Considering the development of Shiraz in South Africa, one must account for the general decline in vineyard area. From 2015 to 2020, this decreased from 98,500 hectares to 92,000 hectares. Nevertheless, Shiraz makes up about 10 to 10.5% of total vineyard area. What is truly noteworthy is the spread of this grape variety across different wine regions. While its heartland remains in Stellenbosch, closely followed by Swartland, this Rhône variety has now reached places like Fouriesberg, Eastern Free State, Sutherland in the Northern Cape, and the Ceres Plateau, all of which are high-altitude areas with cooler climates.

At the foot of Africa, regions like Elim and Malgas also possess cool climates ideal for Shiraz. While Shiraz does require specific vinification techniques, it adapts to the distinctive needs based on where it's grown, be it Stellenbosch or newer regions.

Kevin Arnold and the Ord family of Waterford have been producing Shiraz for almost 40 years across several estates in Stellenbosch. Their focus at Rust en Vrede has been on fruit quality and flavor; they harvest before the berries have started to shrivel, which results in lower alcohol levels and added elegance. This contrasts with many others who have waited until the berries were much riper. New oak was once a more substantial component; however, Kevin believes that today's focus has shifted towards site-specific wines, clarity, texture, and length, and high alcohol levels are no longer the trend.

In the vineyards, there are now more clones, cleaned older clones, and increased attention to old vineyards.

What are the specific characteristics of a Stellenbosch Shiraz?

Kevin lists: "White and black pepper, fynbos, leather, and olive tapenade are notably from the older Helderberg vineyards." Elim, near Cape Agulhas, has emerged as a fresh area for Shiraz; Trizanne Barnard, with her Trizanne Signature Wines, stands out as one of its most successful representatives. "A special cool climate viticulture is essential," she notes, "it’s necessary to open up the canopy, thin some grapes to spread the plants adequately, allowing remaining grapes to bask in the sunlight."

In winemaking, Trizanne emphasizes that her significant switch is now harvesting based on wine taste and phenolic ripeness, allowing for gentler vinification and reduced extraction. This approach embodies Elim's specific salinity, white pepper, and silky tannins in an elegant, weighty wine.

Swartland is characterized by its warm and dry climate. Chris and Andrea Mullineux manage healthy soils naturally, yielding balanced vines. Complexity stems from a mix of sunlight and shade, avoiding fully opened vine canopies. The goal to impart a sense of place in the wines is achieved through a similar natural philosophy in the winery with minimal new wood use. Unsurprisingly, Mullineux believes that a Swartland Shiraz should reflect its warm, sunny nature, beautiful texture, freshness, and firm yet gentle tannins.

But is it Shiraz or Syrah for these winemakers?

Andrè van Rensburg from Stellenzicht was the first South African winemaker to register his Shiraz as Syrah with the Wine & Spirits Board in 1994. Up until then, everyone used the name Shiraz!

Kevin Arnold, who uses a Bordeaux-style bottle, thinks of it as Shiraz, "but Syrah in a Burgundy bottle." "Syrah just sounds a lot more refined," remarks Trizanne while the Mullineuxs aim for complexity, balance, and freshness, which calls for the Syrah designation. Regardless, their wines are making waves both locally and internationally.

Tim Atkin Report 2021

Tim Atkin, a British Master of Wine, recently praised South African Syrah in his South Africa Report 2021. He is thrilled with the evolution of this varietal in South Africa and looks forward to Syrah enthusiasts enjoying it to the fullest very soon.