Harvest at Van Loveren: A Peek Behind the Scenes of Grape Picking

As winter in Germany slowly fades – at least regarding temperatures – it remains warm here at the Cape. In particularly warm regions like Robertson, the harvest for early ripening varieties and grapes for sparkling wines is already in full swing. Other areas such as Hemel en Aarde Valley have to wait.

After over 20 years of collaboration, we finally set off to experience the harvest live at our largest partner Van Loveren.

Recently, the estate gained attention with two acquisitions. The Retief cousins took over the nearby Overhex Winery, well-known for their "Survivor" brand. A few weeks ago, they acquired 51% of shares from Neil Ellis – one of the top wineries from Stellenbosch.

Our visit to Robertson became an unforgettable experience filled with good friends and exciting insights into the modern production of wine.

The vineyards of Van Loveren now stretch over vast areas of Robertson. Harvesting all these fields at the optimal time presents a significant logistical challenge – hand-picking is no longer feasible.

This requires harvesters, and we were curious.

Upon arrival at half-past seven, Bussel Retief awaited us. The process starts in the vineyard. This morning, Irsai Oliver was harvested, a Hungarian crossbreed that is featured in the sweet Four Cousins Natural Sweet wines.

This varietal is also grown in Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Austria – and here in Robertson. The wines are fruity, aromatic, and evoke Muscat flavors, though they are less sweet.

We found two massive harvesters ready in the vineyard. From atop the machine, you grasp the scale of the area – and understand why two of these machines are necessary.

Then we began. We were struck by the speed and gentleness with which the grapes were shaken from the vines, without being crushed.

Behind us, we saw nearly intact picked fruit. The grapes were already largely destemmed, conveyed along belts, and collected in integrated tanks.

In minutes, a row of vines was harvested. The machine turned – and continued.

As we stepped down, tractors with trailers positioned themselves behind the harvesters. In less than a minute, they emptied their tanks. The freshly harvested grapes were immediately on their way to the cellar.

The processes flowed together like clockwork. Oxidation – the biggest concern for many winemakers – barely stood a chance.

From the tractor it goes directly into the auger, through the press, and into the fermentation tank. Not more than 45 minutes after harvesting, the juice flows into the fermentation vessel.

This is, for someone who spends hours polishing a newsletter, optimization at the highest level.

After this striking experience, we shifted into the cozy part of the day, as Anne Marie, Bussel's wife, prepared a wonderful breakfast.

The highlight was fresh Mosbolletjies.

This traditional winemaker's specialty is baked only during harvest. Instead of water, fresh fermented grape must is used in the dough, lending the pastry its unique flavor.

The freshly baked Mosbolletjies are a true piece of South African wine culture – and a privilege for family, staff, and select guests.

You can find Mosbolletjies of varying quality on the market. They can also be baked at home with flour, butter, milk, must, eggs, and anise seeds.

When we asked Bussel if he was needed in the cellar, he chuckled, saying he'd done something wrong if he still had to be involved at this scale of operation.

He starts every morning at 2:30 AM at the operation, but he now relies on a strong team.

During peak harvest times, up to eight harvesters operate daily – five owned and others rented with drivers.

White wines that ripen early are harvested between 2:00 AM and about 11:00 AM. After that, it gets too hot. Top wines of the Christiena range are still harvested by hand – with headlamps.

Later ripening red varieties are picked at cooler temperatures, thus shifting the hours accordingly.

Modern harvesters no longer need to stop. Tractors run right beside them, collecting the harvested fruit on the go. Time is money.

The expected harvest volume is about 27,000 tons from around 1,500 hectares of vineyard – dimensions that are hard to envision as an office worker.

Thanks to modern technology, the time between harvest and pressing can sometimes be shortened to less than 15 minutes. The crucial factor is merely the distance from the vineyard to the cellar.

Our enthusiasm for this remarkable family business remains undiminished.

Harvesters do not impede quality – quite the opposite. They facilitate outstanding wines at fair prices while ensuring efficiency at the highest level.