Discovering Robertson and Calitzdorp: A Scenic Trip to Wilderness

As the sunlight hours at the Cape decrease, we feel the farewells approaching. Leaves fall swiftly, and temperatures drop, reaching about 11°C at night and fluctuating between 15°C and 25°C during the day depending on the sun. The trend is on the decline.

Important family birthdays are approaching in Germany, so it’s time to pack our bags. But before we begin, we always try to visit friends and explore new destinations. This time, we set our sights on Wilderness.

Coming from Somerset West, we went to Robertson, where we met our friend Bussel Retief for a magnificent muesli at Four Cousins. He is the winemaker among the famous four Cousins who lead Van Loveren together. He invited us to see his incredibly valuable vineyard, which turned a one-hour stop into a delightful half-day experience with coffee on his terrace. We traveled over 50 km and realized just how much land Van Loveren actually manages. We also learned that it’s not all about wine, and that Robertson even has its own little Switzerland. There’s far too much to share here; we will feature these gems in a future newsletter.

With many great impressions, we headed to Calitzdorp, arriving only after nightfall. Our accommodation was fine, but the culinary offerings were rather meager. A brief conversation with the waitress: “Is the fish frozen? Yes, the fish is frozen.” We asked, “But the lamb is fresh?” She replied, “No, no, no, it’s all frozen.” Just typical in the middle of the little Karoo.

Fortunately, our breakfast at De Krans with our friend and owner Boets Nel made us forget the previous night swiftly. A delightful breakfast in the vineyard with wonderful company—what more could you desire? Boets told wonderful tales and showed us places we didn’t know about.

Adventure can begin just a few hundred meters after departing town on the Road with no name, initially called Calitz Str. This scenic route curves back to the R62 after about 30 km, but it’s a thrilling journey. Previously, we turned back at Peter Bayly due to our hesitations, but this time we were determined to complete the stretch—an exhilarating 30 km drive, through wild, untamed landscapes and humble homes. Bananas abound along with sheep, goats, and cattle, curious about the vehicles. If, like us, you're not driving an SUV, tackle this road only during dry conditions to avoid stirring up serious red dust.

As we merge back onto R62, one house drew our attention: “Roger Young, Handcrafted Furniture, Woodcarving, Photography.” If you're in the area, it’s a must-visit for a cup of coffee at the very least; three artists have united in this remote location to create a gallery, and their photographs of local people captivated us profoundly.

Ultimately, we made our way to Wilderness, and for the next visit, we’ll ensure to arrive by daylight, aiming for accommodation on the The Dunes side of the N2. Yes, it may be pricier, but the breathtaking beach view is worth it compared to the N2, which you can’t even see on booking.com. Thankfully, traffic was mild as it was the weekend.

En route in Wilderness, we were pleasantly surprised by the excellent seafood—first at “The Girls on the Square” and later at “Salinas” with stunning ocean views.

On Saturday, we reserved time for a beautiful hike—the “Kingfisher Trail” in the Wilderness National Park, which runs along the “Touwsrivier” and leads to a waterfall where one can swim. The trail features a ferry crossing on the river. However, be cautious of going further upstream on the difficult mountain trail; it leads nowhere!

Before heading back to daily life, we made a lovely beach stroll at “Gericke’s Point” in Sedgefield, which was one of the most beautiful experiences—long, picturesque stretches with hardly anyone else around.

In summary, these three days reminded us of how much more the Western Cape has to offer beyond our usual working environment; a dream for a 14-day vacation would be magnificent!

Finally, a note on the elections at the Cape occurring on May 29; these are anticipated with great interest, as polls suggest the ANC may lose its absolute majority.