Discover the Hidden Charm of Aged South African Sauvignons

Sauvignon Blanc is South Africa's most important export grape and also the most consumed variety domestically. It surpasses Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay in the mass market. However, while this popularity often raises skepticism among discerning wine aficionados, some 30-year-old Sauvignons from Stellenbosch could silence even the toughest critics.

Among wine lovers worldwide, the enthusiasts of Sauvignon Blanc are the most passionate. Their curiosity about details such as clone material, volatile aromas, sunlight exposure, and yeast dynamics makes them the most meticulous researchers of the wine world.

The Science Behind Sauvignon Blanc

During a discussion with Dr. Carien Coetzee, a judge at the Concours Mondial du Sauvignon, Tim Atkin posed uncommon questions, hoping to provoke fresh insights. Yet it quickly became apparent: she had thoroughly researched all these topics and had even authored scientific papers.

Question: "Why does a white wine smell like black currant?" Answer: "Ah, mercaptans! More specifically, MMP4." (The compound responsible for this intense aroma is called 4MMP (4-Mercapto-4-methyl-pentan-2-one) and belongs to the three principal compounds containing sulfur, commonly referred to as volatile thiol compounds.)

Question: "Aren't mercaptans a fault?" Answer: "Not always. Their effect varies depending on concentration – sometimes it smells like guava, other times like cat urine."

What We Believed About Sauvignon Blanc – and What We Know Today

Science is constantly evolving. Thiol compounds, once blamed for aromas like gooseberry and grapefruit, now manifest earthy notes alone. Only in combination with esters do the tropical and citrus aromas appear. The influence of cool climates on green notes like bell pepper has also been revised: intense sunlight can reduce these aromas even in cold regions.

Even the seemingly untouchable concept of terroir is under scrutiny. Studies indicate that the choice of yeast strain by the winemaker exerts a greater influence on aroma than terroir itself.

The Prejudices Against Aged Sauvignon Blanc

"Sauvignon Blanc does not improve with bottle aging." This assertion has been repeated for decades. Official materials from WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) still claim that Sauvignon Blanc is unsuitable for bottle aging.

Cathy Marston, a WSET educator and Master of Wine student, explains: "Sauvignon Blanc undergoes significant changes through aging, but most consumers do not appreciate these changes. From a commercial perspective, it is therefore deemed unsuitable."

A Discovery Journey in Stellenbosch

On a cold June day, Atkin set forth in Stellenbosch in search of evidence to void this prejudice. At Mulderbosch Estate, cellar master Henry Kotze revealed selections of Sauvignons from the 1990s to 2017.

The first wine, a 1995 Sauvignon, pleasantly surprised me: a vibrant mix of elderflower, Seville oranges, lime leaves, and honey. On the palate, it displayed tropical notes of pineapple and caramelized sugars – impressive for a wine in this price range (current retail price: about €12).

The 1999 vintage also presented notes of white asparagus, green bell pepper, and beeswax. Both wines demonstrated that Sauvignon Blanc can remain characteristically varietal and enjoyable even after nearly three decades.

Why Early South African Sauvignon Blanc Was Not Age-Worthy

Charles Hopkins, cellar master at De Grendel, recalls the 1980s and 1990s: "Back then, it was common practice to keep Sauvignon juice as clear as possible, which resulted in aromatic wines, yet none with structure for long aging. Later, we began incorporating more solids into the juice, yielding richer, age-worthy wines."

Technical advancements such as improved temperature control, more precise filtration, and longer skin contact times have revolutionized Sauvignon Blanc's aging potential in South Africa. Today, not only is aging possible – it's highly likely.

The Results of a Blind Tasting

To further validate his thesis, Atkin held a blind tasting featuring 15 Sauvignon Blancs from various regions and vintages. The favorites were the Reserve White 2015 and 2017 from Reyneke along with the Steenberg Black Swan 2012. The latter displayed impressive complexity with aromas of roasted asparagus, honey, and grapefruit – a testament that unwooded Sauvignon can indeed be phenomenal even after 12 years.

The Aging Risk – and Why It’s Worth It

A remarkable trend observed during tasting: Many Sauvignons between five and eight years seemed closed and unbalanced. In contrast, wines exceeding the ten-year mark revealed an impressive sensory depth.

Perhaps the issue lies not in Sauvignon Blanc aging too long, but rather in not aging long enough. A wine like the Steenberg Black Swan 2022 could be twice as impressive by 2034.

Conclusion: A Reevaluation Is Needed

The claim that Sauvignon Blanc does not benefit from bottle aging appears increasingly untenable. Older vintages showcase remarkable aromatic complexity, harmony, and length. Even skeptics have been impressed with the quality of aged Sauvignons.

When South African Sauvignon Blanc is vinified correctly, it possesses the potential to rival some of the world's finest aged white wines. It may be time to reconsider the judgment on this variety – and nurture the patience for the aging it rightfully deserves.

(Tim Atkin, October 2024)