Pinotage - A Pride of South African Winemaking

If you think you understand Pinotage, it might be time to rethink that notion. The combination of early harvest and careful extraction is allowing Pinotage to reveal its elegant character.

With aromatic fruit and maritime freshness, these wines represent a genuine new beginning – expressing the unique characteristics of single vineyards in South Africa's wine regions.

An Expression of South African Pride

“Our South African varietal is in an exciting phase of expertise,” states Dirk Coetzee, a winemaker from Stellenbosch.

“I believe we have more insights today than ever before. Thus, Pinotage invites everyone to experience our wine regions and their terroirs through an exciting perspective.” This grape, a genuine national creation, was created in 1924 at Stellenbosch University through a combination of Pinot Noir and Cinsault – a mix that initially seems unlikely.

Pinotage has gained a reputation for bold and oaky styles that no longer set the trend; they also risk becoming their own parody. A virus that left it with a rubbery smell nearly ruined its good reputation. But, those days are over. Vintners in South Africa have turned a new direction, and a fresh, aromatic wave of Pinotage has emerged. Elegance, purity, and freshness are the goals.

“Pinotage is often seen as widespread; it also represents many old vines in the South African wine industry, comparable to Chenin Blanc,” Coetzee explains. “Therefore, Pinotage reflects the extreme conditions of our wine regions, the old and diverse soil types, and the maritime influence. This diversity is evident in various styles, from fresh, pure, fruit-driven wines to richer, more intense expressions. You can't pigeonhole these differences into a set pattern.”

Sandstone, Slate, and Granite: The Foundation of South African Wines

“At the Cape, three rock types are dominant,” explains Dr. Etienne Terblanche, a wine consultant at Vinpro. “The youngest stone is sandstone, which was deposited around 300 to 400 million years ago. Below the sandstone lies a band of slate, also known as Malmesbury slate, which is a relatively soft and flexible medium formed about 500 to 550 million years ago. Within this slate, there are granite intrusions that comprise a large part of the wine terroir at the Cape, including metamorphosed graywackes, representing the connection between granite and slate.”

Coetzee notes that granite produces “rich and structured wines,” while “slate imparts much fruity intensity and purity. On sandstone, you get tight tannins.”

A Fresh Face for Pinotage

With a much fresher Pinotage avoiding the heavy influences of overripeness and excessive oak usage, vineyard characters and the natural structure of the fruit shine through. Early harvesting, whole-bunch processing, gentle extraction, and the use of larger oak formats make a significant difference. One can almost sense the sea breeze. Coetzee and Terblanche present six extraordinary wines, showcasing a diversity that is elegant and very different from the Pinotage one might remember. There’s depth and aroma, yet no heaviness. Experience it for yourself!

(Translated from Falstaff January 2022)